Real Food/Fake Food

Starred review from June 20, 2016
Olmsted, who writes the "Great American Bites" column for USA Today, boldly walks readers through a course in food authenticity that covers olive oil, cheese, Champagne, seafood, steak, coffee, and more. Readers will be inspired by his intensity and clarity, and floored by how far some counterfeiters go to fool consumers and some historic food institutions go to protect their products and their names. Olmsted's research is impressive, and he lets no stone go unturned. He lets the terrifying facts speak for themselves, adding just a little humor. The method for creating Parmigiano-Reggiano is a time-honored tradition used for hundreds of years; Olmsted warns that "because counterfeiting the King of Cheeses has become a global pastime, will be augmented with security holograms." But security measures haven't stopped stores and restaurants from making false claims on the food they serve. In one study of lobster dishes from independent eateries and big chains, "more than a third of the dishes did not contain lobster"at all. One eatery sold lobster ravioli that did not even have any seafood in it at all, just cheese. Olmsted's sharp language will hopefully put fires under counterfeiters everywhere, and he alerts shoppers to use a keener eye and a more questioning mind when choosing a restaurant or grocery aisle. With the guiding hand of a good friend and prose that keeps the reader's eye moving, Olmsted insists that readers "shop better and cook more."

July 1, 2016

Federal regulatory agencies, specifically the FDA, take a hands-off approach to the content of foodstuffs available to American consumers, according to this expose by food writer Olmsted (Getting Into Guinness). This is particularly troubling because some food sourcing practices have significant public health implications. Olmsted focuses on items such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Champagne, Port wine, and Kobe beef; products of specific geographic areas subject to strict production practices, except in the United States, where their names may be used on ersatz similar products. A scary chapter on seafood and a litany of additional foodstuffs threatened by fakery (fruit juice, honey, and maple syrup) demonstrate that official disregard for geographic protections isn't the consumer's only problem. Olmsted offers helpful tips for identifying "real food" and avoiding the inauthentic when shopping and dining. Chapter sequencing is quirky, with two chapters on cheese and two on beef each separated by several other chapters. The focus on top-tier items makes the content of limited direct relevance to budget shoppers, but despite its highbrow assumptions, this is an important book to help all buyers shop prudently and with a wary eye toward the claims of food producers. VERDICT Recommended for all consumers along with policymakers, those interested in food science, and marketing professionals.--Janet Ingraham Dwyer, State Lib. of Ohio, Columbus

Copyright 2016 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

June 1, 2016
An investigation of the American food industry, providing examples of authentic and fraudulent products and how best to differentiate between the two.In his solidly researched new book, USA Today food and travel columnist Olmsted (Nonfiction Writing/Dartmouth Coll.; Getting into Guinness: One Man's Longest, Fastest, Highest Journey Inside the World's Most Famous Record Book, 2008), a well-traveled and knowledgeable food writer, takes readers on an enlightening but frequently disturbing culinary journey. While providing fascinating insights into where and how some of the most delicious food products are produced, the author also reveals how often these are imitated to detrimental effect. "When you choose to eat Real Food, your immediate benefit is that it tastes good," writes Olmsted. "Your long-term benefit is that it is almost always healthier....Conversely, when you choose--or are duped into eating--Fake Foods, you usually get things that taste worse, are less healthful, and sometimes truly dangerous. Eating them supports production methods that are often unsustainable and sometimes illegal." Beginning in Parma, Italy, the author emphasizes the importance of terroir in the establishment of the quality and character of individual foods. Three basic products have been carefully produced for several generations in this region and consistently meet the highest quality standards--parmesan cheese, balsamic vinegar, and prosciutto--while the various knockoffs always fail to compare. In later chapters, Olmsted explores specific products and industries, such as olive oil and truffle oil, champagne, beef, wine, cheese, and possibly the scariest and certainly most confusing of all: the fishing industry. Regarding seafood, writes the author, "in many major U.S. cities, your chances of getting what you ordered--and paid for--in both restaurants and stores are slim at best." A provocative yet grounded look at the U.S. food industry. Though the prospect of finding quality food products may prove increasingly challenging for most consumers, Olmsted provides encouraging tips to help navigate the many obstacles.

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